They say the only solution is to buy a new windlass! The whole thing; motor, gear box and gypsy. This is the main shaft from the gearbox up to the gypsy that is bent.
Try moving it manually, if you can • john when i hit the down or up mode it just clunks like the solenoid is stuck. • tony my windliss will free drop, but on retrieve the outer casing moves in like its about to grab the rope, but rope gear is not spinning or grabbing and retrieving the rope. Is there a shear pin out or any suggestions what to do? • chris cornelius My windless, when in the up position, slowly when traveling allows the anchor to loosen about 6 inches and becomes loose. Also, when trying to pull up the anchor, the line is slipping through the teeth. How can I remedy this? • Follow up on Lofrans that drew 180 amps on no-load Lofrans finally replaced the motor,, (which took two attempts, since they sent wrong one first time) We rented a car and drove 1000 miles in two days to get it worked out It took from my July 2016 post till a few weeks ago to get refunds for the motors we paid to get shipped, including dealing with emails from Loframs factory that were an insult to any customer’s intellect.
Clark Beek Clark is a marine electrician and has been an active contributor for SAIL for many years. During his ten-year circumnavigation aboard his 40-foot ketch Condesa, Clark survived the Southeast Asian tsunami and being run down by a freighter off the coast of Brazil. In addition to following developments in the world of marine electrical systems, Clark is the General Manager of the Spaulding Marine Center, a boatyard and nonprofit educational center in Sausalito, California. Clark's blog is condesa.org.
• Follow up on Lofrans that drew 180 amps on no-load Lofrans finally replaced the motor,, (which took two attempts, since they sent wrong one first time) We rented a car and drove 1000 miles in two days to get it worked out It took from my July 2016 post till a few weeks ago to get refunds for the motors we paid to get shipped, including dealing with emails from Loframs factory that were an insult to any customer’s intellect. We have given up on a refund for the solenoid they made us buy to replace the original that had a one volt drop across it when new. The windlass is working now, but cannot pull anywhere near the advertised load, we have over 10.5 volts at motor terminals at full load. I will never buy a Lofrans product again We bought in the UK, and are now in Caribbean, a few weeks later than planned due to the Lofrans issues. If I lived in U.K. I could probably get a good settlement in small claims court, but I prefer sailing • Jim I have a sea wolf windlass all chain that stopped working.
We must stop this evil Italian monopoly on windlass control solenoids!or just address one problem at a time, like a windlass that won’t work. Most windlasses are switched through a solenoid, like those ones pictured above, but some are switched directly through a high-amperage foot switch, with no solenoid between the foot switch and the windlass. In both cases, the problem and solution are the same: The solenoid in the control box, or your foot, presses a large copper bar against two contacts.
Parts List: Home: Products: Support. *For more information or any questions regarding windlass service parts not listed below please. 60 amp manual reset. Windlass Maintenance. Dealing with routine maintenance of the motor and of the manual over-ride mechanism for an electric windlass. If yours is a manual. Goiot Manual Anchor Windlass We also now realize that we can't use the windlass in manual mode should there be the clutch face after getting caught in fast current with the anchor in rocks.
My guess is that your problem is purely electrical. Measure the voltage right at the windlass, while it is running. My guess is you’ll see very low voltage, which shouldn’t push the amperage up in and of itself, but if it’s trying to draw current through a bad connection or undersized cabling, that might be causing the extra current draw.
• My boss’s windlass solenoids on her 52 ft Irwin ketch are horribly rusted and need replacing. But I’m a little confused.
I’m not sure how many brushes can be stuck and still get noise/vibration from the motor without any real oomph, but that’s a simple thing to check with a preliminary disassembly of the motor. Or just pull the motor and take it to a motor shop, where they can check it out and make quick work of it. Before any of that I’d try touching the power leads from the battery directly to the leads/posts on the motor and see what happens. Keep in mind you’ve got a motor that might be locked or have something wrong with it, so expect sparks (wear glasses) and be ready to abandon the effort quickly. • Michael Warlick Hi Clark, I disassembled my solenoid that operates my Seawolf windlass. It was mounted inside at the front of the V-Berth so corrosion does not seem to be an issue here. The contacts are clean.
Possible solenoid problem or mechanical freeze up? • Johann Can I have some info about a CIMA windlass, don’t know how old is it?
Could it be that the bow thruster is 24-Volt, with the batteries wired in series to power it, but the windlass is 12-Volt, so it’s taking 12-Volt off just one of the batteries? Or vice versa?
• Albert Hi Clark I have windless anchor Lawrence 700. I installed wireless remote control with solenoid since mine is direct connection to the up and down switch in the cockpit and the breaker. Once I installed the wireless remote it works great but when I try to use the toggle switch the breaker trips. I changed the switch but it still trips any idea. Thanks • Clark Beek Hi Bob, Extremely slow operation could be: 1.
The solenoid looks exactly like the picture second from the top. By changing the solenoid to a 4 post (Like 3rd pic from the top), would that work? Reading over many site and see some are saying it will work and some are talking about gear rotation and clutches.
James • Carlos M. I have a windlass control box IMTRA, 12v, 500-1500 watts, 3 terminals.
Could it be in the electric motor itself? • Eric Lecavalier Great. Thanks again. I’ll bring a battery on the boat, unplug the whole control box and then test the leads from the windlass to the battery directly.
Could it be in the electric motor itself? • Eric Lecavalier Great. Thanks again. I’ll bring a battery on the boat, unplug the whole control box and then test the leads from the windlass to the battery directly. I suspect I simply need to put the leads to the battery (red to + and black to -) and see if it release or raise the anchor. And then do the opposite (red on – and black on +) and see again if it release or raise. • Clark Beek Hi Eric, I remember messing with a Simpson-Lawrence and noting some proprietary, solid state components.
Within few seconds the enormous weight on the cable gave it a jerk to slip while the brake was on and then the full length of the cable slipped out burning the brake liner due to heat and friction, breaking up the bitter end cover inside the chain locker and dislodging the foundation plate of windlass from the deck developing a huge crack. Fortunately none of the crew members forward were injured. Thus, assessing loads on windlass and cables while using them becomes a vital part of the maintenance procedure. A weekly schedule for windlass should involve lubricating all the plain bearings through the grease nipples and the gear teeth. Monthly or quarterly checks recommended for the condition of brake linings should be carried out depending on the frequency of use.
When I use a wrench to move the drum manualy it makes the windlass return to life. Slowly on the beggining and normal after a few seconds. But when I stop using it for a few moments it does not work anymore. So again need to give some manual help before it works one more time. What should I check first? • Clark Beek Hi Brian, That’s a new one.
I have put a tester on the high voltage line and ground on solenoid and there is no power there at all. I have checked the cable from front to back looking for a fuse or in line breaker switch and have not been able to find anything that resembles a breaker. • Michael Roberts Thank you for this invaluable information. Two hours ago we were seriously jammed in a bay in the Cyclades with a gale forecast tomorrow. Encouraged by you we now have a reliably working solenoid and we can get to a safe anchorage.
Only going up won’t do anything. It was working fine, then after a few attempts it started to stop responding. The control box is a simpson lawrence reverse solenoid. If I try to raise the anchor from the foot switch or helm switch it does nothing. What could be the problem?
Cheers Peter • Nimrod Shapir Hi, I have a Lofrans 1200 W. When I lift my anchor the windlass stops every few meters and I have to wait 20-30 seconds before it comes to life again. Sometimes the fuse is “jumping” and I have to go to the cabin to put it on.
Yes, applying power directly to the windlass leads is a good test, and will help you rule out a problem with the windlass itself. Remember it’s a high-amperage connection, even with no load on the windlass, so expect sparks and wear eye protection. • Eric Lecavalier Thanks Clark for the quick answer. This is much appreciated.
Try to work on only one feature at a time. The towel should have weights if there is wind. Use containers for the small parts, or several containers corresponding to the order of removal. Containers should be weighted down so they won't blow away in wind gusts. Disconnect electricity by turning off the main breaker to the windlass or flipping the main battery switch. Check that terminals for wires are tight and clean of corrosion.
Once I installed the wireless remote it works great but when I try to use the toggle switch the breaker trips. I changed the switch but it still trips any idea. Thanks • Clark Beek Hi Bob, Extremely slow operation could be: 1. Wrong voltage (feeding 12 Volts to a 24-Volt windlass). Mechanical: gummed up with sticky old grease, or no grease, or something partially siezed.
Lewmar Windlass Maintenance
Do they screw out? • Gordan Hi, I have yet another problem that I have not seen asked yet: on one od the two switches when I release it the solenoid is (sometimes) not disconnected immediately. It can take a few seconds. No issues with the other switch though.
The windlass is 2 directional. But there are a total of 4 solenoids!
I changed the switch but it still trips any idea. Thanks • Clark Beek Hi Bob, Extremely slow operation could be: 1. Wrong voltage (feeding 12 Volts to a 24-Volt windlass). 
Mechanical: gummed up with sticky old grease, or no grease, or something partially siezed. Bad electrical connection anywhere in the circuit, including solenoid contacts.
Always at the cutting edge of technique in electro-mechanics, Lofrans was often a pioneer and created solutions which have now become standard. We were the first to introduce to the market products and solutions, such as the AUTOMATIC FREE FALL, the CONTROL BOX, and last but not least, the PROJECT versions of our X range, a last generation “PLUG&PLAY” anchor windlass, with a built-in solenoid motor and rich of other innovations, which have succeeded in merging technology and function to give the end user the maximum reliability and safety. Using this configuration, the installation of the product was made faster, easier and the reliability of the chain-counter system greatly improved.
• Our 6 week old Lofrans Tigres 1500 watt 12V windlass worked OK first few times used, but is now gutless It trips a 150 amp breaker, although I can pull the chain in a few inches with one hand. Motor runs at advertised speed on no load (chain off) BUT draws 180 amps. Full load is supposed to be 130 amps. • Clark Beek Hi Brian, Hmm, to actually sheer a sheer pin would take some force, so unless there’s been something catastrophic that’s unlikely. Usually a cone or washer friction device engages the motor to the gypsy/wildcat/drum.
My Simpson Lawrence has 2 connections to the windlass, 2 connections to battery positive and negative and 3 connections to the switches (1 for up, 1 for down and the middle one is a common positive). The common positive interconnect each switches together to provide them power. I saw several boxes on the market, but I don’t think they all have a “common positive” like that Any thoughts? • Clark Beek Hi Kerry, You followed excellent troubleshooting methodology! My guess, and it’s just a guess, is that there’s a bad connection somewhere along the down motor lead.
Most Windlasses can be operated in a free-fall mode by manually loosening the clutch, which lets the gypsy spin freely. Electric windlass with freefall have an option for a switch at the helm station which allows you to singlehanded drop the anchor in your desired location. Freefall can get pretty wild as so try it first in shallow water as the chain speed may get too fast in deep water. At Anchor After you have successfully deployed the anchor and it has set, you need to use a chain stopper to isolate the load from the Windlass. Typically windlasses are rated for 3 or 4 times the weight of the ground tackle and not enough to handle larger loads generated in strong winds and waves. To soften the load or shock load, from wind and waves, on the chain stopper and boat, use a chain snubber or an anchor kellet. Both of these devices will make life at anchor much smoother and enjoyable.
It has power foot pedals up and down. There is a solenoid for each foot pedal. For some reason when I drop the anchor the windlass moves very slow and sluggish lately. When retrieving the anchor back to the boat the windlass works properly and runs quite quickly. So I switched the leads on the motor affectively reversing the foot pedals. Now the opposite foot pedal runs the anchor down and it still drops slowly and retrieves quickly with the other foot pedal so I know this cannot be a solenoid issue. Having a hard time understanding what could be going on here.
If yours is a solid state solenoid, as in many up-only installations, you simply can’t get at the contacts and the solenoid must be replaced (about $50). If you’ve got one of the Italian jobs, or one of their American (meaning Chinese) equivalents, you can get to the contacts and clean them. During my ten-year circumnavigation this was an annual task, heralded by the aforementioned warnings. Usually you’ll have to completely remove the control box and disconnect all wires. Note where everything goes: digital cameras and smart phones are great for this. Once you’ve got everything disconnected you can confirm your diagnosis by touching the power cable directly to the power lead(s) on the windlass.
• Ken Tait For Paul Westhead. Where did you find Brushes for your windlass motor.
• JEAN-MARIE BRUNET Hi Clark, Thanks for your prompt answer. I opened the control box earlier. No corrosion in that. Everything very clean.
Containers should be weighted down so they won't blow away in wind gusts. Disconnect electricity by turning off the main breaker to the windlass or flipping the main battery switch. Check that terminals for wires are tight and clean of corrosion. Apply terminal grease. Renew Delrin washers between stainless fasteners and aluminum body, if needed.
Fallout new vegas game download. • Clark Ken/Paul, If you can’t find the right brushes online or through manufacturer, most windlass motors are automotive starter motors, or close enough, so if you take it to an auto electric shop, where they rebuild starters and alternators, they will almost certainly have, or be able to get, the right brushes. • Ken Tait For Paul Westhead. Where did you find Brushes for your windlass motor. The motors all seem to be CIMA manufactured. I need some and am getting the same run around from the manufacturers that I need to buy a complete motor!
The shaft consists of shaft and pinion and shaft roller bearing, which is lubricated through the grease nipple. The drums are usually provided with manual brakes or they can be hydraulic operated brakes.
Do you have any idea how this situation can be solved or at least improved? Thanks • JEAN-MARIE BRUNET Thank you Paul Westhead. I appreciate • Paul Westhead For Jane marrie brunette look at my post my windlas had sticking worn brushes inside motor this also caused windlas to operate very slowly when solonoid did not click just 2 bolts holding base of my motor which holds the culprit sticking brush • Paul Westhead Hi I had a problem with my Lewmar v700 windlas when trying to use solonoid just clicking after my own investigation I took the motor apart and found the brushes to be worn and one brush was sticking so I sanded it down a little so the brush does not stick and the spring does its job, it now works perfect. I contacted lewmar to order 1 pair of brushes but they said I would have to buy a new motor I have measured the brushes and ordered a pair off the Internet for £3.99 so waiting for them to arrive hope this helps anyone else • JEAN-MARIE BRUNET Ok. But do you think that the wash down pump connected directly to the control box may have damaged the solenoids?
Lofrans Manual Windlass
• Clark Beek Hi Robert, the typical ones have retaining nuts on the studs on the outside, spring washers, and o-rings. Once you get the nuts and washers off, should just be o-rings and plastic holding them in. • Robert Burnett I’m having difficulty removing the studs.
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